DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Kev8990 (Day 21 - Nature In The Summer).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 17

Silhouettes

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Day 18

Panoramics

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Day 19

'Blue' Theme

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Day 20

Beach Huts In The Landscape

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Day 22

Insects

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Day 23

Markets

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

Once you have your tourist, postcard style shots, spend a few hours of your vacation time thinking about how you can do things a little bit differently. (Yes, we know we are talking about not doing this but the reason everyone takes these shots is that they do actually look good, most of the time. Just remember to get up early or stay out late to miss the rush of tourists so you stand a better chance of capturing people-free shots.)
 

1. Use It As A Secondary Point Of Interest

Instead of making the landmark your main point of focus, place another object in the foreground and use the landmark as background detail for your shot. You could use a larger aperture to throw it slightly out of focus but don't go too wide as you still want the landmark to be recognisable. For shots with plenty of depth of field, think like a landscape photographer, standing further back from your landmark so you can add interest in the foreground as well as the middle and background of the shot.

 

2. Find A New Angle

This is an obvious point that's also easier said than done sometimes but even the smallest change in composition can make a big difference to the shot. Try blurring foliage into an out of focus frame, shoot through a window or arch or look for objects your landmark can be reflected in. Shooting down into a puddle of water, particularly on a moody, wet day will give any landmark photo an interesting twist while switching from a wide lens to telephoto so you can crop in will give you a shot that's ever so subtly different but yet, still recognisable to those back home.

Watch for where the crowds go and head off in a different direction, looking for new vantage points to shoot from. This could mean climbing to get above it or trying to get lower to shoot from nearer the ground. We can't guarantee you won't get any funny looks but you should walk away with a set of unique shots. 

 

 

3. Get In Close

As landmarks are well known you don't have to get the whole structure in the frame for people to know what it is. The blue/green shade of the Statue of Liberty will be recognisable no matter how close you zoom in. In fact, the shapes created to form drapes in the statue's clothing could create an interesting abstract shot if you have a lens that can get you close enough.

 

4. Head Out When Other's Don't

A cloudy, rainy day will put most sight-seers off and you should take advantage of this. They'll be less bad weather shots than there are scenes with blue sky and sun. Rainy days also mean you can shoot reflections (as mentioned above). Just remember to protect your equipment as unless it's waterproof, it won't like the rain.

 

 

5. Human Interest

We said above to head out early/late to avoid crowds but including one or two people can give your landmark shot a new angle. By adding people, street vendors setting up near the landmark or people sweeping away rubbish, you add a new level of interest to what would be 'just another tourist shot'. As people have a habit of stopping what they're doing and either grinning or frowning when they see a camera pointed at them you may need to work more like a street photographer to get shots where your subject isn't posed. 

   

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Photo by Joshua Waller

 

1. What Is It?

Environmental portrait photography has nothing to to with global warming or looking after the planet. It is all about photographing your subject in their natural environment. This can be anywhere from where they work, where they live, or anywhere where they like to spend their time. It is all about portraying something of the character of your subject through where they are in the photo.

 

2. Find A Location

It can be difficult to set up a shot properly with environmental photography. But persevere until you find the perfect location for your subject, and you will be rewarded. So how is the perfect destination for a shot found? Firstly, you have to get to know your subject. You need to find out what they like to do in their spare time, what their hobbies are, where they enjoy going etc. When you know this, you can then add together what you have found out to place them in their own perfect photographic location, which also portrays who they are as a person. Think of it as a candid shoot with a studio approach when it comes to some of your shooting and the setting up of the scene.

 

3. Backgrounds

There should be some background detail, to add character to a picture, but not so much that it overpowers the presence of the person in the shot. The idea behind this method of photography is that the background subtly adds to the feel of the portrait yet does not become the main feature. If you find the background to be too distracting, try using a wider aperture to blur the background so you can still make out what's there but the eye is immediately drawn to the person instead. You could also try cropping the shot when you're back at your computer or simply move your subject to a place where the background isn't so distracting. Remember, you want your location to relate to your subject and add interest to the shot without actually pulling attention away from your main point of focus.

 

4. What To Wear

You want your subject to be relaxed and comfortable so don't dress them in something that will make them uncomfortable. Keeping their hands busy is a good way to distract them so bring along some props, so long as they fit the theme and don't distract the viewer's attention too much.

 

5. How To Pose

Posing your subject but still getting them to look natural so it looks almost candid takes some work but with directions and guidance from you, your subject should find a pose that works in no time. Try to make them as relaxed as possible as any tension will be visible on their face. A simple chat will help ease their worries so you're then free to ask them to create whatever expression suits the scene you're working with.

This technique can be challenging at times, but once you get used to the methods of taking environmental photos, you will love the results it gives you. A lot of photographers love it because it is more than a picture, it's an insight into someone's personality and life. Why not have a go yourself, and see what amazing and expressive results you can achieve?

 

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  Fields make great photographic subjects and better still if you play around with slow shutter speeds you don't need particularly good weather to get great photos which is good news for us Brits who quite often don't see the summer sun (although this year we are doing a little better in the sun stakes!). Some farmers have started harvesting their crops, but there are still some fields out there which the tractor hasn't reached yet.    1. Use A Wide-Angle Lens

A wide-angle lens will be the most useful bit of kit you take with you.Don't own a wide-angle lens? Take your telezoom along and just stand a little further back to get your sweeping shots of the field. 

 

2. Don't Trespass 

Make sure you're not trespassing so if there's no public access through a particular field you want to photograph stay out if it and use your telephoto.

 

3. Take Your Tripod

When using slower shutter speeds (try 1/15-1/5th or longer depending on how windy it is) you'll need a tripod as you don't want shake creeping into your shot. 

 

4. Straight Horizons

To get your horizon straight, you either need a really good eye or something to help you measure it. Some cameras have inbuilt levelling systems but if yours doesn't, you can get a spirit level that sits on the camera's hotshoe. Although, you can find in-built spirit levels on many tripod models.

 

5. Take Your Filters Along

Pack an ND filter in case the sky's a little too bright and you need to balance the exposure. 

 

6. Aperture Choices

Use a small aperture to get front to back sharpness, so you can show the whole field turning into a sea of waves.

 

7. Create Interest 

Add interest to the shot by looking out for objects such as a single tree standing at the far end of the field or a barn that will give the viewer something to focus on.

 

 

8. Guide The Eye

If there are tractor tracks use them to guide the eye from front to back. Hedges and fences can also be used for this purpose, too.

 

9. Use Frames

If there are overhanging tree branches, gate posts or if you happen to stumble across an old barn without glass in its windows or any doors, have a play around with frames in your shots to add an extra level of interest, plus they can help focus the viewer's eye when used in the correct way

 

10. Clouds Are Good

Golden light diffused by a light blanket of cloud looks great shimmering across the crop.

 

11. Photography The Sun

Clouds lower contrast and help eliminate flare which means you can shoot into the sun. Just don't look directly at it through your lens as it can cause serious damage to your eyes.

 

12. Rain Isn't A Bad Thing

Shoot in different weather conditions and at different times of the day as a dark, heavy sky full of rain adds drama to your shots while the warmer light and colours of a sunrise or sunset will make the field glow.

 

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    1. Research

Before you leave your hotel, make sure the market's open and have a quick glance at the weather forecast as it won't be much fun walking around a market when it's raining rather heavy. Although fewer people will venture out to open-air markets when it's wet so you'll have more room to work. If you're going on a market trip that's organised by an excursion company you won't have much say in when you can visit the market. Plan your own trip, however, and you can arrive for when it opens, giving you more room to work and the produce will be fresher which means your shots will look more appetising. If it is really, really busy step back or find a higher spot to work from and shot a few wide shots of the hustle and bustle.
 

2. Be aware of your surroundings

Don't leave your camera bag unattended and if it's really busy, it's a good idea to do the tourist trick of spinning your bag to your front. Yes, you may look a little silly but it's better than finding all of your gear's gone from your bag. Taking a bag that doesn't scream: 'look I'm carrying expensive equipment' is a good idea too. 

It's important not to get distracted by one particular stall either. Market's are generally big places and they'll be more than one location that's worth getting your camera out of its bag for.

 

 

3. Light Source

As most markets you find on your travels will be outdoors you'll need to watch your exposure as the contrast between a stall which will probably be undercover and the open space around can change drastically. As a result, your camera will see the bright surroundings and underexpose the shot, making the stall appear a lot darker than it actually is. You may find using the exposure lock function and then re-composing as necessary should fix the problems that may occur. If you're indoors exposure shouldn't be a problem but you will need to watch your white balance to make sure the lights aren't tinting the tone of your image.

When it comes to flash, it's best to avoid using it, particularly as you most likely will only have the one that's built into your camera and the harshness of it can ruin the atmosphere of the scene you're trying to capture. You're better off just using a slightly ISO and getting the monopod out if you have problems with shake.
 

3. Wider Shots

Stepping away from the cover of the stalls to somewhere higher up, if possible, will give you the chance to shoot some shots that establish exactly where you are. If it's in a square surrounded by buildings try and get these in your shot and use the long lines created by the stalls to lead the eye through the image too.

4. Close-Ups

The beauty with markets is the stallholder wants to sell their products so usually they present them well, which means all you have to do is take the shot. Look out for colours that complement each other, interesting patterns and the textures on offer in the products on display.
 

5. People

If you want to shoot portraits always ask before you take your photos, be polite and don't get in the stall holder's way. If they say no don't argue and keep pushing as this will only annoy them and you'll probably find someone else will be more than happy for you to take their photo on another stall. If you're finding communication's a problem a big smile and holding your camera up can often get your message across quite easily.
 

 

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Meike has officially released the MIX Series 24mm f/1.4 full frame autofocus lens, now available for E, Z, and L mount systems. The lens is designed for portrait and low-light photography, offering a wide aperture and fast autofocus performance.

 

Specification

• Model: MK-2414FFSTM-E/Z/L
• Focal Length: 24mm
• Aperture Range: f/1.4 to f/16
• Filter Thread: 72mm
• Diaphragm Blades: 11
• Minimum Focusing Distance: 0.28m
• Focus Mode: Auto Focus
• Lens Construction: 15 elements in 12 groups
• Weight: Approximately 550g
• Full Frame Angle of View: Diagonal 84.8°, Horizontal 74.8°, Vertical 53.8°
• APS-C Angle of View: Diagonal 61.9°, Horizontal 52.8°, Vertical 36.2°

 

 

Availability

The lens is available now for E, Z, and L mount systems. The suggested retail price is USD $589.

For further information or to place an order, please visit the the Meike website.

 

The Society of Photographers is excited to host a series of free-to-enter photographic roadshows across the UK. Now in its 11th year, these events offer an excellent opportunity for photographers of all experience levels to explore innovative industry trends, connect with leading photography brands, and gain valuable insights through expert-led Masterclasses.

 

A Unique Learning Experience

Each roadshow starting at 09:30, will feature three FREE Masterclasses led by renowned photographic educators, covering topics such as lighting techniques, business strategies, and inspirational storytelling. Attendees will have the chance to learn from an impressive lineup of speakers, including Raj Khepar, Gary Hill, Luke Davis, Mr Whisper (Balwinder Bhatla), and Rebecca Douglas.

 

Leading Brands in the Industry

The accompanying trade shows will showcase top photographic companies, allowing attendees to explore the latest equipment, software, and services. Exhibiting brands include Fujifilm, Sony, Canon, Nikon, Elinchrom, Permajet, 3 Legged Thing, MagMod, Gomatic, Click Backdrops, Camera Centre UK, Aaduki Multimedia Insurance, Graphistudio, The Society of Photographers, Professional Imagemaker, Bump2Baby, and Praetego. Manufacturers will also be offering exclusive show deals for attendees.

Event Schedule

Here are the upcoming 2025 Roadshow dates and venues:

September 2025

• Tuesday 16th September – Webbington Hotel & Spa, Somerset
• Wednesday 17th September – Green Park Conference Centre, Reading
• Thursday 18th September – Priestfield Stadium, Kent

 

  An Unmissable Opportunity for Photographers

Colin Jones, CEO of The Society of Photographers, expressed his enthusiasm for the upcoming events: “We are delighted to bring the Roadshows back for 2025. Each event will offer three free Masterclasses, providing valuable insights and tips to help photographers elevate their skills. Alongside this, our trade shows will be packed with leading photographic companies showcasing the latest products and services, with exclusive show deals available. Whether you’re an aspiring or professional photographer, these events promise to be both educational and inspiring. Best of all, entry is completely free!”

 

Register for Free Tickets

To find out more about The Society of Photographers’ 2025 Roadshows and to secure your free tickets, please visit the event website.

Get Your FREE Tickets Today!

 

What Is A 'Fast' Lens?

When you hear the term 'fast lens' it means that the lens in question has a large maximum aperture (the bigger the aperture, the faster the lens will be). The aperture is often displayed as an f followed by a number but do remember that a large maximum aperture will actually be a small number such as f/1.8. A fast prime lens would be considered fast when it has a maximum aperture under f/2.8. However, if the lens is 300mm or longer, an aperture of f/2.8 would be considered to be fast and the same goes for zoom lenses.

 

Let's Talk Apertures A bigger aperture (small f-number) will allow more light to reach the camera's sensor which means faster shutter speeds can be used even in low light situations. They're useful in various shooting situations including places where flash can't be used, at concerts where there's not much ambient light, indoors when you're trying to capture movement such as dancers on stage and for subjects such as sports photography where fast shutter speeds are essential.

 

Nikon 50mm f/1.4D lens, Different apertures: f/1.4, f/4, f/16. More on exposure and camera settings here.

 

You Can Work Hand-Held

Another advantage to fast lenses is that you won't always be forced to use a tripod as the faster shutter speeds allow for hand-held shooting in more situations. This is something that's particularly useful in places where tripods aren't allowed such as in cathedrals or in busy locations where light can be an issue such as in a museum.
 

The Negatives

A downside to fast lenses is that they can be expensive and they tend to be heavier and bigger than other lenses. Care needs to be paid to focus when using autofocus as you may find it tries to focus on the wrong part of the shot, leaving focus on an area of the image that wasn't your intended subject. It's also worth investing in a good quality lens so images don't appear soft when viewed on-screen.

 

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Photo by David Pritchard

 

Head to ponds, lakes and rivers and chances are, you'll soon spot Damselflies and Dragonflies which make interesting subjects for a macro image. If you do want to have a go at capturing these flying insects in your shots ideally, you'll need a macro lens but a longer zoom with a macro function at the longer end will also work fine, especially when coupled with extension tubes. Approach slowly, and start taking pictures from a distance so if they do fly off, at least you've got a few images saved to your memory card. It can be easier to capture images of these insects from a higher angle, looking down on the subject but do try shooting side-on, too. 

These characters aren’t the easiest to catch on camera, but a reasonable shutter speed combined with a small maximum aperture will make tracking your subject easier. You also really need to know your equipment well otherwise you could miss a shot searching for a dial/function so do remember to examine your equipment carefully, even more so if it's a new piece of kit. 

Take the time to pick a background carefully because even though you'll be throwing it out of focus, a busy background will still be distracting.

Below you'll find more tips along with a selection of dragonfly and damselfly images taken by ePHOTOzine member David Pritchard. 

 

Photo by David Pritchard

 

"I used a 20mm extension tube for this shot, so that I could get higher magnification from a greater distance. That was important for two reasons; firstly, this pair of damselflies were very skittish and secondly, they were perched over water. I couldn’t have got closer if I had wanted to and as a result, a shorter lens just didn’t work for this shot. However, as I was using a zoom lens, I was able to reach right out over the water, and the extension tube allowed me to make sure that the lens didn’t reduce in focal length as it was focused. It has also resulted in the background softening out."

 

Photo by David Pritchard

 

"The shot below is of a Banded Demoiselle and if you get the chance, watch one in-flight as it's quite beautiful." 

Photo by David Pritchard


 

"Another Banded Demoiselle, this time a female. The grace of these insects in leisurely flight belies the speed and agility that they are capable of; this lady disappeared from my viewfinder for only a couple of seconds. In that short time she shot out three feet, and returned to the same spot with this lacewing. The females generally seem more cautious than the males, and are certainly harder to spot."

Photo by David Pritchard

 

"The Banded Demoiselle is one of my favourite species of damselfly, due to their spectacular flight. The male’s wing markings appear electric blue under the right light, and they appear almost butterfly-like in the way that they move."

 

Photo by David Pritchard

  

"For this image, I used extension tubes to increase my working distance, and then chose a combination of aperture and focal length that allowed me to include some of the foreground grasses without them detracting from the main subject which added some layering to the photo."

Photo by David Pritchard

"This Damselfly was resting a few feet over the water and due to the bright sunshine,  I was able to use a couple of extension tubes (totalling 56mm) to bring the insect within range. This meant I was able to throw the background out of focus more than normal." 

Photo by David Pritchard
 

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The Edinburgh Festival Fringe is a huge arts festival that runs in August and even though you need tickets for many of the shows at the Fringe, you can visit the Royal Mile for free where you'll find plenty of street entertainers you can capture images of.

Due to the event's popularity and the variety of things on offer to photograph, you will see all sorts of photographic approaches so there's not really hard-and-fast rules to follow more like guidelines that'll help you capture the best of what the Fringe has to offer. Also, although taking photos is fun do remember that you're actually there to enjoy yourself so do take your eye away from the viewfinder occasionally and just enjoy the atmosphere.

 

Photo by Cattyal

 

1. Lens Choices 

A standard zoom is perfect for the sort of distances you'll be taking photos from. If you own a telezoom do take it, however, someone will more than likely get in the way if you're using a longer lens so use it for tightly-cropped shots rather than trying to get a shot from a distance. Wides can work but make the point of getting in close to fill the frame and accept that you are going to get fussy backgrounds.

 

2. Know Where You Are Going

Pick up a guide as it lists times as well as locations of where things are happening, plus if it's your first time visiting, there's usually a handy map included to help you find your way. The best location is on the Royal Mile where you get street performers and artists promoting their shows with mini-performances.

 

3. Be Patient 

It does get bustling with visitors and performers coming and going all day but hang around for long enough and you will find something to aim your lens at.

 

4. Take Care 

Due to how busy the Royal Mile gets remember to take care of your possessions and don't leave anything unattended. It can also get hot at this time of year, so remember to keep hydrated and you'll probably encounter a sudden downpour, too so keep a brolly handy.

 

Photo by  Cattyal

 

5. Payment For Performance 

Some performers would like a payment for posing and it is up to you if you want to make a contribution. Some of the shows are excellent and you might feel that a sample of enjoyable street theatre is worth some small change.

 

6. Be Polite 

As they're performing in public, on the street they tend to not mind you photographing them. However, if the opportunity arrives, it is always polite to ask them if it's OK to take a few shots. 

 

7. Capture Close-Ups 

As they're passionate about their performance you'll have plenty of interesting expressions and movements to photograph so get in close if the opportunity unfolds.

 

8. Crowd Or No Crowd? 

If there's a big crowd or the street they're on is particularly cluttered hide it by cropping in close to the performer. However, if the crowd's having a particularly good time, having them in the shot can work well in an image with the performer. Alternatively, just capture an image of the spectators watching the show. 

 

Photo by David Pritchard

9. Speed & Position 

Shoot quickly, watch the background and move around to explore different camera angles.

 

10. Different Perspective 

Performance shots are great but don't overlook capturing shots of performers scooping up change from guitar cases or moving position to set-up for the next part of their act.

 

11. Continuous Shooting & Focus 

Switch to continuous shooting but don't be tempted to constantly machine-gun away. Instead, take the time to watch for the key moments that are worth capturing. Continuous focusing will help you maintain focus on the street performers.

 

12. Shutter Priority 

Consider using Shutter Priority so you can decide how much you freeze / add motion blur to action shots. To add crowd movement to your shot you'll need a slower shutter speed and a support. Tripods take up too much space so use a monopod or even your camera bag as a support. Use a small aperture and low ISO to get the slower speeds you need. You may need to experiment to find the exact shutter speed that works but the beauty of digital means you can check the screen, adjust and take another shot.

 

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The basic function of a tripod

First, let's quickly examine what a tripod will do for us. First and foremost, it supports our camera, attached lens, and some of the other gear, like a flash unit, etc. It helps us position our camera at an odd angle at times. It helps us get higher than our typical shooting stance, and get lower at times for macro work. The most appropriate tripod for you will depend on your shooting style and choice of subject matter. There is not one tripod out there that is better with every subject matter; on the contrary, many tripods are specialist.

 

 

So, what areas should your tripod excel to be useful for outdoors shooting?

If you are planning to shoot nature, there are certain aspects of the outdoors which your tripod will have to endure, which it would not, if it was used indoors.

1. Moisture is an enemy of photography gear. If you plan to shoot landscapes in the wilderness, wild animals, birds, etc., your camera and you will end up in some wet environments. As such, you have to make sure that your tripod choice reflects this fact. Many manufacturers build tripods specifically meant for the outdoors, and they are built to be moisture resistant if not proof.

2. The terrain is always a concern outdoors. A good tripod should have spiked feet, simply because you will often end up on loose soil, dirt, and other surfaces that will be uneven, and require sharp spikes to secure the tripod, and attached gear. You can buy spare spiked feet from manufacturers if you don't have any.

3. The load is a very important aspect to consider. How heavy is your camera and your heaviest lens? Are you planning on getting larger heavier lenses in the future? While it is tough to predict, always try to plan ahead. Your choice of a tripod will reflect your future purchases. Always, make sure your tripod has at least 30% of capacity for future upgrades to your equipment. If you plan to shoot wildlife, you will have some really heavy lenses, and a tripod will have to support them and allow you to pan smoothly when shooting animals in action.

4. Weight is probably the main determining factor in your purchase. Remember, when you travel and explore, you will have your tripod with you, and depending upon how much walking you do, the weight of your tripod will be more or less important to you. However, always aim for the highest ratio of weight to load. In other words, look for lightest tripod rated for highest weight. Outdoors are often rough environments and every pound counts. 

5. The flexibility of shooting positions is important when you change subject matter on the fly. If you are like me, you will shoot macro, landscapes, panoramas, and perhaps even some animals, depending on the time of day and weather. If so, a flexible centre column is a must feature. Look for a tripod which allows for multiple positions of the centre column. A tripod should allow you to get low, and have more than one-foot angle. The best tripods for this job will offer up to three different angles for the feet, which will allow you to get very low if need be, to shoot flowers, insects, etc. 

 

 

How much money?

Choosing a tripod is not easy. Some manufacturers do make things easier and group them into specialities, like outdoors, studio use, etc. Do as much research as you can, because there is no one ideal model that suits everyone. Remember the old saying: "You get what you pay for". This is very important when deciding how much you are willing to pay. Keep in mind, a huge budget will not always mean you get the best tripod, but it will mean that you do have more choices.

Do not look for a cheap tripod, which you think may suffice. Your shooting requirements will change, and within a year or two, you will be shopping for another one. Strongly consider carbon fibre as they are lighter than any alloy, more durable, will not bend, and flex under the weight of your gear, and do not rust, corrode, or are adversely affected by moisture. They are more expensive, but without a doubt worth the extra money. Look at this purchase as a long-term investment in photography. After all, your images will only be as good as your shooting ability and your gear

 

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Samsung Electronics’ 9100 PRO is the newest addition to the company’s lineup of consumer SSD products. With its PCIe® 5.0 interface, the 9100 PRO offers advanced performance and seamless multitasking productivity, along with broad compatibility across laptops, gaming PCs and game consoles. Now available in up to 8TB capacity, it delivers even greater storage and high-speed performance for today’s data-intensive applications and next-gen gaming experiences.

 

Expansion of SSD 9100 PRO Line-up With Two New 8TB Models for High-Performance Users

Samsung has unveiled two new 8TB additions to its high-performance SSD 9100 PRO series: the 9100 PRO 8TB and the 9100 PRO 8TB with Heatsink, designed to deliver improved thermal efficiency and sustained peak performance.

These new models follow the earlier launch of the 1TB, 2TB, and 4TB versions in March, and mark a significant step forward in offering the highest capacity PCIe SSD released to date by Samsung, providing ultra-high-capacity options for gamers, content creators and professionals demanding top-tier speed and reliability.

The 8TB variants offer exceptional performance, with sequential read speeds reaching up to 14,800 MB/s and write speeds up to 13,400 MB/s. They also provide outstanding random read and write speeds – up to 2,200K IOPS and 2,600K IOPS, respectively – making them ideal for intensive workloads.

Built on the PCIe® 5.0 interface, both models are engineered to deliver ultra-low latency, reduce load time, and ensure seamless gameplay, even in the most demanding environments. The Heatsink- equipped model adds an extra layer of thermal management for consistent performance during extended use.

With this expansion, Samsung reaffirms its commitment to delivering cutting-edge storage solutions optimized for the evolving needs of modern computing.

 

 

Improved Performance and Increased Capacity

 

• A new 8TB storage option offers expanded capacity for large game libraries.

  • With this 8TB SSD, users can install about 80 popular PC games, based on an average game size of 90.6GB

  • Calculated using the top 11 titles from Steam’s “Best of 2024: New Releases” list. *

    * Ref.  https://store.steampowered.com/charts/bestofyear/bestof2024?tab=2

• Features the PCIe 5.0 interface, offering double the speed of the previous PCIe 4.0 generation

• Achieves sequential read speeds of up to 14,800 MB/s and write speeds up to 13,400 MB/s, delivering a performance boost of up to 99% over its predecessor, the 990 PRO

                    *9100 PRO 4TB’s sequential read speed is 14,800MB/s while 990 PRO 4TB’s sequential read is 7,450MB/s

• Enhanced random read and write performance with speeds of up to 2,200K IOPS and 2,600K IOPS, respectively
• Power efficiency improved by 49% compared to its previous model, thanks to advanced heat management solution

                    *9100 PRO 2TB’s sequential read and write power efficiency is 1,822 and 1,703 MBs/s per Watt, respectively while 990 PRO 4TB’s sequential read and write is 1,221 and 1,255 MBs/s per Watt, respectively

 

 

Enhanced Overheating Protection, Expanded Storage and Broad Device Compatibility

 

• 1 terabyte (TB), 2TB, and 4TB models are integrated with 8.8mmT heatsink, ensuring improved thermal control and preventing overheating. Also complies with the PCI-SIG® D8 standard.
• Even as a high-capacity 8TB PCIe 5.0 model, its 11.25mmT Heatsink is specially designed to ensure compatibility with the PlayStation® 5 series.
• The 9100 PRO is compatible with a wide range of devices, from laptops and desktop PCs to gaming consoles, making it an ideal choice for seamless upgrades in both performance and capacity.

 

The 1TB, 2TB and 4TB models are currently available for purchase at Samsung.com and other retailers, and the 8TB model will be available from mid-September. The manufacturer’s suggested retail prices (MSRPs) for the 8TB model is £781.49 with M.2 model and £796.99 M.2 with a heatsink model, respectively.

For more information, please visit samsung.com/SSD or semiconductor.samsung.com/internal-ssd/.

 

Zoos and wildlife parks are great places to get up close with wildlife, but the fences and glass keeping us and the animals safe can cause a few problems for photographers.

 

Height Is An Issue

Fences often rise above eye level and the tops aren't in easy reach (for good reason) so you can't hold your camera up above it to take your shots. As a result, we often have to take photos with the cage in front of us but this doesn't mean the fence has to appear and as a result spoiling the shot.

Sometimes it's easy to capture fence-free shots as the gaps in the mesh are just big enough for a lens to be poked through, however, when it's not, you'll have to use a few other tricks to capture your wildlife shot. 

 

Close With Wide Apertures

One way is to get as close to the fence as possible and select a wider aperture. Then, line up your lens so it's over a gap or if they're too small, try and wait so the face of the animal you're photographing is in a gap. Once the animal has put some distance between them and the fence, take your shot. The fence will, hopefully, be thrown our of focus, thanks to the reduced depth-of-field, so you won't even notice it while your subject will be sharp. 

You may find that Auto Focus tries to focus on the fence rather than your subject so switch to manual focus to ensure your subject is sharp. 

 

Longer Lenses

If you are using a lens that doesn't have a particularly wide aperture then don't worry; you'll still be able to capture a mesh-free shot with a longer focal range. If you can't shoot through or throw the fence out of focus you can often clone it out later using an image editing program. 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

Beach huts are wonderfully photogenic and you can get great pictures of them almost regardless of the lighting conditions. However, beach huts get elevated to iconic status when the scene is complemented by a photogenic sky.

 

1. Gear Suggestions

A wide-angle will help you make the most of big skies, but even the short end of your standard zoom should be fine. Obviously the wider your lens the more sky that you can include. However, there is the danger of going too wide and including fantastic sky detail as well as more mundane bits, so do frame carefully. A selection of filters can come in very handy so do pack some graduates as well as the polariser.
 

2. When?

Lovely skies can occur at any time of year and at any time of day so you just have to be aware of the conditions and keep an eye on what’s happening. With heavy showers followed by brief spells of intense sunlight, there is every chance of dramatic skies, not to mention things like rainbows.

Periodically check what’s happening in the heavens as the day progresses and in the end, you might end up with a good set of images, all taken from the same spot but looking very different as the sky is constantly changing.

 

3. Metering

Exposure can be tricky because of the wide contrast range between the sky and the beach huts, so you need to think about metering to ensure the optimum result. In some cases, you might even find the foreground to be brighter than the sky, say when there is a doom-laden dark sky behind the sunlit huts.

With this sort of shot, the most important of the scene is the highlight detail (usually the sky) so meter off that and let the shadows worry about themselves. If the foreground then looks too gloomy use exposure compensation to help and reshoot.

If the light is changing quickly, and this can happen in stormy conditions, bracket exposures to make sure you get a result you are happy with. If you find the sky is still coming out too light, fit a graduate filter.

 

 

4. Enhance

A polariser can intensity a colourful or a stormy sky depending on the direction of the light so that too can work. A polariser can enhance a sky to make it work even better for a black & white conversion. However, you might prefer the natural approach and that is perfectly fine.

 

5. Composition

In terms of composition, being bold can help. Some people might want to compose using the rule-of-thirds, but this can actually look rather static. Lining up the huts along the very bottom of the frame can work better and give even more prominence to the sky. Just explore the options when you are framing up the shot.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

Meike has unveiled the MK-EFTL-C, delivering EF lens compatibility to L-mount cameras through its drop-in filter mount design, with autofocus support and filter functionality. The adapter supports autofocus and works with both PDAF and CDAF modes.

The adapter includes electronic contacts for aperture control and EXIF data transmission. It ships with a variable neutral density filter (ND3–ND500) and a clear UV filter. The metal-bodied unit weighs 105g with the ND filter installed.

 

Specifications

Model: MK-EFTL-C

SRP: USD $199.99

Front mount: EF(EF-S) lens

Rear mount: L-mount camera

Maximum diameter and length: 73 × 24.7 mm

Packing size: 88 × 65 × 88 mm

Autofocus: Supported

Focus modes: PDAF and CDAF

 

For more details, visit the Meike website.

 

You probably know how much easier life can be with the right accessories if you use your iPhone every day. These tools are made to fit into your daily life without any problems. They include charging solutions that save you time and small gadgets that help you work or create.

We want to help you find some of the most useful iPhone accessories today.

 

Smart accessories

 

Let's start with something as easy as charging, many people now use wireless charging pads all the time. Simply put your iPhone on the pad; you don't have to look for cables or worry about broken connectors. This is a small change, but it keeps your desk or nightstand neat and your phone always ready to use.

A portable power bank is almost a must-have for people who are away from home a lot. These small batteries fit in any bag or pocket and can give your phone a boost when you really need it. Some models even let you charge quickly, so you don't have to wait long to get back to your calls, replacements, or messages.

People are already interested in the iPhone 16, which is the next step in Apple's line of products. You won't have to worry about compatibility when you decide to upgrade because many of these accessories are made to work perfectly with the newest models.

 

Tools for creativity and productivity

 

Of course, not everything is about charging, and you might want to try a clip-on lens if you like to take pictures with your iPhone. You can use these small lenses to try out wide angles, close-ups, or even artistic effects right on your phone. You can easily carry them around, and they can give your photos a new look if you're taking pictures of your family or a cityscape.

On the other side, it's fine to type short messages on a touchscreen, but if you need to write longer texts or emails, a Bluetooth keyboard can be very useful. These keyboards connect wirelessly and are often slim or foldable, so you can use them at a café, on a train, or anywhere else you can find a moment to work. It's an easy way to make your iPhone more useful.

Also, if you really want the newest and finest features, the iPhone 16 Pro Max is the best choice, and using accessories like lenses or keyboards can help you get more out of your device. If you're looking to upgrade without breaking the bank, platforms like Back Market offer refurbished iPhones and certified accessories that meet high standards—often at a lower price. It's a smart way to stay up to date while keeping your budget in check.

Getting the newest gadgets for your iPhone is about finding the ones that really fit your needs and habits. A wireless charger, a portable battery, a lens, or a keyboard can all help make your day-to-day life a little easier. These accessories are a great place to start if you want to get more out of your current model or are thinking about getting a new one. The best gadget India's gadget is the one that makes your life easier without getting in the way.

  Every year for one weekend in August Ramsey and the people who visit take a step back in time and celebrate the 1940s. The event, which you can find more information about on the Ramsey 1940's weekend website, is a great place to take your camera to and you're also guaranteed to have some fun while you are there. If you can't get to Ramsey there are plenty of other events that take place right across the country.     1. Gear Suggestions

If you arrive before the crowds then a 50mm lens is perfect for capturing people in costume but when the masses arrive or if you like to have a little more versatility, pack a zoom lens that gives you wide to mid-range focal lengths. A tripod's always helpful, particularly if you're heading to the dance in the evening when the light will be lower. They can be a little clunky and can get in the way though so you may like the flexibility a monopod gives you instead. Flash may be handy in the evening, but you could just turn up your ISO slightly or pop your camera on a tripod and use slightly longer shutter speeds.
 

2. Picking A Subject

When you arrive you'll find plenty of people dressed in 1940s clobber and RAF uniforms who are perfect for a nostalgic portrait shot or two. Some people will be so fabulously dressed they'll just shout: 'photograph me' at you but make sure you take a good walk around to see who else is hiding among the vehicles and stalls. You could get a few candid snaps of the crowds as you do so too.

 

 

3. Ask If It's OK

When you do find your subject make sure you ask their permission and don't be in a hurry to photograph them where they stand as you could look back and realise you have a modern car or burger van ruining your shot. You can try and throw the ugly background out of focus but if you have the time, make the effort to chat to your subject and ask them to move somewhere that's more appropriate. You still may want to throw the background out of focus and leave all the attention on your subject, but at least the blurred objects and shapes will be more fitting to the era you're trying to capture. If you can, do take your time when you're looking through the viewfinder and pay particular attention to their costume. It's amazing how straightening a skirt or fastening up a button can make a big difference to the overall shot.

 

4. Capture Movement

If you hang around for the dance you'll need fast shutter speeds to freeze the action on the dance floor or put your camera on a tripod and slow your shutter speeds to blur the movement of the skirts/dresses as they spin around. There will also be plenty of candids off the dance floor such as to capture too. 
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

  If you're looking for a project that you can shoot over several weeks or even months have a go at creating a collection of images that all share the same colour.

As this is something that can take quite some time to do, it's something you can shoot alongside your other types of photography or you could try working on several different 'colour themes' all at once.

Your subjects don't have to be the same but it's important that the colour is, that way once you have a few images in your collection, you can begin to group them together to create panels and triptychs to hang on walls or post in online galleries.  

 

As you don't know what you'll be photographing until you see it, it's best to take a zoom lens out with you. By doing so you'll have various focal lengths to play with plus if you plan on walking for a while, you won't have lots of kit weighing you down.

You can sit and create a list of items organised into colour groups you can photograph or try visiting a location and wandering around to see which colour would be best to shoot in that particular place.

Do remember that the lack of other colours does mean you'll have to work harder to ensure your composition is interesting. That means you need to pay particular attention to textures, lines, shapes and framing.

     

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

A well-timed image of two Bee Eaters has been awarded this week’s Photo of the Week.

Taken by Lillian, it shows the birds in sharp focus with vivid colours and precise markings captured in fine detail. The timing is spot on, holding the moment with clarity and capturing their interaction beautifully. The richness of colour, the precision of detail, and the balance across the frame combine to make this an outstanding example of wildlife photography.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2026, we’ll crown our 2025 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

 

The camera body has that famous red dot and the lens sits comfortably, definitely looking the part. A fairly compact Leica zoom that covers the essential standard focal lengths, has a useful 1:3.3 magnification and brings Leica quality within our grasp has to be attractive. Does it deliver that Leica quality? Let's find out, combining the lens with the 60MP Leica SL3 Full Frame mirrorless body. It looks like a formidable and impressive combination, so putting it through its paces should be interesting indeed.

 

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 28-70mm f/2.8 Handling and Features

The Leica SL series, with its pseudo-DSLR styling, always looks solidly well made, be it the camera bodies or the lenses. The Leica name in itself invites high expectations. The construction is big and chunky, not so much in actual size or weight but in physical size of the controls and engravings. This is very true of the Leica SL3 provided to review this lens with the huge control dials and the huge LEICA logo showing little of the diminutive finesse of the Leica M series. The 28-70mm f/2.8 lens shares this ethos up to a point, but in fact is about as compact as it is going to get within the range. The finesse is apparent in the engravings around the front element, the focal length settings around the lens barrel being, in contrast, large and bold.

 

 

There is a supplied petal lenshood that bayonets firmly into place. There is no retaining catch, nor is one needed. The hood is well made, but the actual seating onto the front of the lens is such that it is just slightly fiddly to insert. There are smoother fitting hoods. Within the bayonet fit for the hood is a standard 67mm filter thread. The front and rear elements are coated with Leica's Hydrophobic Aqua-Dura coating, helping to repel moisture and grease. The lens as a whole is dust and splash resistant, a close to essential feature in variable weather conditions.

Weighing in at a fairly modest 572g (613g with hood), despite the Magnesium-Aluminium body, it is also quite compact at 72mm x 102mm. There are few controls, just the focusing ring and the zoom ring. The former is electronic, very smooth but with a higher degree of resistance than many. Focusing is selected via the camera, so no AF/MF switch, and is virtually silent as well as being snappy and accurate. Focusing is down to 0.19m at 28mm, for a maximum magnification of 1:3.3, and 0.38m at 70mm for a maximum magnification of 1:4.6.

 

 

Optical construction is 16 elements in 12 groups, including 3 Aspheric and 1 floating group that helps maintain quality at all focus distances. The electronically controlled aperture is capable of being set to operate in steps of either one third or one half stops.

 

 

Finally, the high quality L mount enables use of the appropriate L mount Leica, Panasonic and Sigma lenses. 

In many ways, a lens that hardly exists is the best lens, in that its operation should not get in the way of the photographer. The more dials and settings there are then the more complex and the less intuitive it becomes. The Leica SL 28-70mm is as simple as it gets and once the camera is set up it becomes an extension of the photographer's vision.

 

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 28-70mm f/2.8 Performance

At 28mm central sharpness is excellent from f/2.8 to f/8, very good at f/11 and f/16 and fair at f/22. The edges are fair at f/2.8, very good from f/4 to f/8, good at f/11 and fair at f/16 and f/22.

At 50mm, central sharpness is excellent at f/2.8, outstanding at f/4, excellent at f/5.6 and f/8, very good at f/11 and f/16 and fair at f/22. The edges are excellent from f/2.8 to f/8, very good at f/11, good at f/16 and fair at f/22.

At 70mm, central sharpness is very good at f/2.8 and f/4, excellent at f/5.6 and f/8, very good at f/11 and f/16 and fair at f/22. The edges are very good from f/2.8 right through to f/11, good at f/16 and fair at f/22.

The longer focal lengths clearly even out the sharpness centre and edge and the standard overall is very satisfactory.

 

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 28-70mm f/2.8 MTF Charts Previous Next

How to read our MTF charts

The blue column represents readings from the centre of the picture frame at the various apertures and the green is from the edges.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Leica SL3 using Imatest. Want to know more about how we review lenses?

 

CA (Chromatic Aberration) is held to very low levels, especially at the centre, and is also well under control at the edges. There is little sign of colour fringing, even with severe subjects.

Distortion is very close to zero, measuring -0.02% barrel at 28mm, +0.05% pincushion at 50mm and +0.25% pincushion at 70mm.

 

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 28-70mm f/2.8 Chromatic Aberration Charts Previous Next

How to read our CA charts

Chromatic aberration (CA) is the lens' inability to focus on the sensor or film all colours of visible light at the same point. Severe chromatic aberration gives a noticeable fringing or a halo effect around sharp edges within the picture. It can be cured in software.

Apochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence they usually cost more.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Leica SL3 using Imatest.

 

Bokeh is smooth and shows good gradation in the out of focus areas. This results in a great backdrop for portraits and flower studies in particular, but of course for any subject that is required to stand out in front of a defocused background.

Flare is minimal, with only very slight tendency to create artefacts. Even the most severe lighting is handled well.

 

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 28-70mm f/2.8 Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 28-70mm f/2.8 Aperture range Previous Next

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

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Value For Money

The [AMUK]Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 28-70mm f/2.8 ASPH|Leica+Vario-Elmarit-SL+28-70mm+f/2.8+ASPH[/AMUK] lens is priced at £1650.00

Extending that range brings in:

• [AMUK]Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-70mm f/2.8 ASPH|Leica+Vario-Elmarit-SL+24-70mm+f/2.8+ASPH[/AMUK], £2390

There are also three possible Sigma alternatives:

• [AMUK]Sigma 28-105mm f/2.8 DG DN Art|Sigma+28-105mm+f/2.8+DG+DN+Art[/AMUK], £1399
• [AMUK]Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8 DG DN II Art|Sigma+28-70mm+f/2.8+DG+DN+II+Art[/AMUK], £1129
• [AMUK]Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8 DG DN Contemporary|Sigma+28-70mm+f/2.8+DG+DN+Contemporary[/AMUK], £779

Leica has a premium price, but not excessively so and it does deserve its Leica heritage in terms of quality.

 

 

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 28-70mm f/2.8 Verdict

Leica quality at more realistic price levels can be an attractive proposition, and here we have a very, very good lens that should give many years of excellent service. The price is not excessively high so it is in line with other quality marques.

The lens is simple in terms of handling and is a pleasure to use. The images look great, the only slight downside being a slightly weaker performance at 28mm at the edges. Being aware of the optimum apertures to use, this need not be a deal breaker, but a stronger edge performance would lift the lens into a higher category.

In summary, a very likeable and easy to handle lens that delivers great images and can be Recommended.

 

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 28-70mm f/2.8 Pros

• Very Good to Excellent sharpness
• Fast f/2.8 constant aperture
• Well controlled CA
• Very low distortion
• Very good flare resistance
• Weather resistance
• Close focusing
• Excellent AF performance

Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 28-70mm f/2.8 Cons

• Lens hood slightly fiddly to insert
• Moderately high price
• Slightly weaker edges at 28mm

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4|R_handling=4.5|R_performance=4.5|R_value=4|R_overall=4|A_level=4|A_text=Recommended – A likeable and easy to use lens that delivers great images|E_id=8027[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

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